Daikin error codes: the full list for Australian models

Last updated 2026-08-28 · Last checked 2026-08-28 · 1693 words · 8 min read

Every Daikin split sold in Australia stores a two-character fault code that you read from the remote by holding the timer CANCEL button for about five seconds. The first letter tells you which half of the system raised it — A and C indoor, E to P outdoor, U system-wide. The table below lists 45 codes with their Daikin meaning and what an owner can do.

How to read the code on a Daikin remote

Point the remote at the indoor unit and hold the timer CANCEL button for about five seconds until 00 blinks in the temperature display. Press CANCEL repeatedly to step through the code list. A short beep or two short beeps means "not this one"; a long, continuous beep means the code on the display is the fault the unit has stored.

That is the procedure in the Cora, Alira X and Zena operation manuals and in Daikin's SM-TS3 guide, which lists it for the ARC417A, ARC423A, ARC433B, ARC447A, ARC452A and ARC455A remotes. The codes cycle in a fixed order — 00, U0, U2, U4, A1, A5 and onward — so write the code down when you hear the long beep. To exit, hold CANCEL for about five seconds again, or wait: the display cancels itself after one minute.

Older ARC433B67, B68, B69 and B76 remotes have no CANCEL-based check. On those, press TEMP up, TEMP down and MODE together; the tens digit blinks. Press TEMP to change it: one short beep means the tens digit is wrong, two short beeps means tens right and ones wrong, one long beep means both match. MODE moves to the ones digit and exits; ON/OFF twice returns to normal. The display auto-cancels after 60 seconds.

Ducted systems use the BRC1E wired controller instead. When a fault is detected the screen shows "Error: Push Menu button" and the operation lamp blinks; pressing Menu shows the code with the indoor and outdoor model names and dealer contact. "Warning: Push Menu button" without a blinking lamp is a lesser alert. On the older BRC1C62, the INSPECTION/TEST button enters inspection mode. Daikin does not publish a blink-count table for its wall splits; the lamp simply blinks and the remote is the only way to read the code. Daikin's global Error Code Search is the manufacturer's own lookup; Daikin Australia's site has no equivalent page.

Daikin error code list

The table combines the fault-diagnosis tables in Daikin Australia's Cora, Zena and Alira X operation manuals with Daikin's cross-range SM-TS3 chart and the ESIE16-02B service manual, using the Australian manual wording where a code appears there. The owner-action column is the most you should do from outside the unit before calling; codes marked ducted/cassette rarely appear on wall splits.

The nine codes marked ducted/cassette — A3, A7, A9, C5, CJ, E3, E4, L1 and U5 — come from Daikin's cross-range chart, not the Australian wall-split manuals, and belong to equipment with drain pumps, expansion valves and pressure switches.

Indoor unit codes (A and C group)

Codes starting with A are indoor-unit component or control faults; codes starting with C are indoor sensors. They show on the unit that raised them, so on a multi-split the other rooms may keep running. Only one, A5, is regularly fixed by the owner; the rest are boards, motors and thermistors behind the front cover.

A1 is the indoor PCB and A6 the indoor DC fan motor. A5 is the protective stop for a coil that has frozen in cooling or overheated in heating; Daikin's cause list starts with a clogged filter, which is why the A5 page is mostly about cleaning. C7 applies to the Zena's self-opening front panel.

The C sensor codes — C4 coil thermistor, C9 room-air thermistor, CC humidity sensor — are inexpensive parts behind the front cover. A unit that alternates A5 and C4 almost certainly has a failing coil thermistor rather than a filter problem.

Outdoor unit codes (E, F, H, J, L and P groups)

Outdoor codes cover the compressor, the outdoor fan, the inverter board and the sensors around them. Daikin splits them into families by first letter: E for the outdoor PCB, compressor and fan, F for protective pressure and temperature controls, H and J for sensors, L for the inverter, and P for the inverter's own thermistor.

The E group is where most outdoor calls land. E1 is the outdoor PCB; E5 is compressor overload and E6 a compressor that fails to start, both technician diagnoses. E7 is the outdoor DC fan motor, which Daikin gives about 15 to 30 seconds to start turning before the code latches. E8 is compressor overcurrent and EA the four-way valve.

The F and L codes are protections rather than failures. F3 (discharge-pipe temperature), F6 (high pressure in cooling), L3 (switch-box temperature) and L4 (inverter heatsink temperature) all mean the outdoor unit could not shed heat. A hedge over the unit, a blocked grille or a 40 °C afternoon can trigger any of them; clearing airflow and resetting is a fair first step. H, J and P are sensor faults — technician job, no owner action beyond noting the code.

System codes (U group)

The U codes describe the system as a whole — the refrigerant charge, the incoming power, the communication between the two units and the pairing of indoor and outdoor models. They tend to appear after something happened to the house rather than to the air conditioner: a storm, a blackout, an electrician's visit, a new solar installation.

U0 is refrigerant shortage: refrigerant is ARC-licensed work in Australia and a low charge means a leak that has to be found. U2 is a voltage drop or main-circuit overvoltage; if it recurs, the supply or the circuit needs an electrician rather than an air conditioning technician. U4 is the indoor–outdoor transmission failure, and the reset Daikin gives for it is a power reset at the outdoor unit — in practice, the breaker.

UA means the indoor and outdoor units are not a valid combination — an installation or replacement-part problem. U7, UF and UH are multi-split codes: outdoor-board communication, a wiring-to-piping mismatch between rooms, and anti-icing running in another room, which clears by itself.

Codes that look like faults but aren't

Not every blink or number on a Daikin is an error. The CANCEL-button check always starts by showing 00, and if 00 gets the long beep, nothing is stored — the blinking you saw was something else. The manuals list normal behaviours that owners mistake for faults, and multi-split quirks that look alarming.

On the Zena, the multi-monitor lamp turns orange for about five seconds periodically when a timer is set; that is the timer indication, not a fault — a fault is the lamp blinking. On a multi-split, an indoor unit that will not start while another room runs the opposite mode is in standby, not in error; one mode runs across all heads. UH, anti-icing in another room, is similar and clears on its own.

A code that shows once after a blackout, clears on reset and never returns is protection doing its job; repetition is what matters. The remote symbols page covers the icons — timer, quiet, powerful, econo — that get mistaken for error indications.

What to do before you call a technician

Most Daikin calls in Australia end with one of four outcomes: a reset that holds, a filter clean, a part behind a cover, or a refrigerant leak. The first two cost nothing; the last two cannot be done by an owner. Five minutes with this list tells you which you are dealing with and gives the technician the details they will ask for.

1. Read the code with the remote, not from memory of what the lamp did. Write it down with the date and time.
2. Note the model numbers from the stickers on the indoor and outdoor units.
3. Reset at the switchboard — breaker off, outdoor isolator off if there is one, a few minutes, back on, restart from the remote. Daikin gives no wait time.
4. Check the two things owners can fix: filters and airflow indoors for A5, clearance and debris at the outdoor grille for E7, F3, F6, L3 and L4.
5. Check for the "call immediately" signs Daikin lists: a burning smell, water leaking from the indoor unit, a breaker or fuse tripping repeatedly, a damaged power cord, abnormal noise. Switch off at the breaker and do not reset.
6. Watch what the code does after reset. Gone for a week is a glitch; back within a day is a fault.
7. Ring with the code, the model numbers and the story — storm, blackout, recent works.

Daikin Australia's manuals say not to repair, dismantle or modify the unit yourself, and every diagnosis step past this list involves a cover coming off.

Frequently asked questions

How do I check the error code on a Daikin air conditioner?

Hold the timer CANCEL button on the remote for about five seconds until 00 blinks, then press CANCEL repeatedly. Short beeps mean the code shown is not the fault; a long continuous beep means it is. Hold CANCEL five seconds or wait a minute to exit. Ducted systems show "Error: Push Menu button" on the wired controller instead.

Does Daikin Australia publish an error code list?

Not as a web page. Daikin Australia's site has FAQs on controllers and maintenance but no error-code page; the codes are printed in the "Fault diagnosis by remote controller" table at the back of each operation manual on daikin.com.au. Daikin's global site has an Error Code Search tool that covers the same codes.

Why does my Daikin light blink but the remote shows 00?

00 with a long beep means no fault is stored, so the blinking was not an error. On the Zena, the lamp turning orange briefly is the timer indication. On a multi-split, a head waiting for another room to finish is in standby. If the unit still will not run, repeat the check — the long beep is easy to miss.

How much does a Daikin technician cost in Australia?

Daikin does not publish call-out or repair fees, and its warranty page refers to the warranty card. Australian repair-cost guides put a routine service between roughly $75 and $200 and technician labour at $80–$110 per hour plus GST; those are service-company figures, not Daikin's, and vary by state and warranty status.